MX Procion Dyes and Chemicals
| To place an order Please list colour, number, size, quantity required and price. |
| To place an order Please list colour, number, size, quantity required and price. |
MX Procion Dyes and Chemicals
All Dyes and chemicals should be kept out of reach of children.
MX Procion Dye: Sold by weight not volume
Fiber reactive dye. Procion dyes are cold water dyes that require salt and soda ash to “react” or activate the dye
and fix it to the natural fiber. Other chemicals can also enhance the process.
You must be very cautious when measuring dry dyes. Wear a NIOSH dust mask.
T.N.A. Soap or Synthrapol (different trade names, same type of product):
Dyer's Soap. This soap removes sizing in a pre-wash cycle and removes dye particles from the fabric after the
dying process. It can also aid as a wetting agent.
Doing a load in your washing machine, 1 – 4 tablespoons would be all that is required depending on the size of
load. While this gentle soap is used extensively with hand dyed fabrics, it is also great with commercial fabrics that
you suspect may "bleed" in the wash water.
Why does this work better than powdered detergents?.... Powdered detergents often have soda ash added to them
which act as a dye "fixer". If you are trying to remove the excess dye particles so they can't fix to a place you don't
want them (red on your white socks!!!) then use a little dyer's soap instead of detergent.
Raycafix:
Dye Fixative. Used if you have a problem with continued bleeding of dyed fabrics. Can also be used to fix the dyes
from inkjet printers on fabric. (See separate instructions for this process.)
Fill container with enough hot water (160F) to cover the fabric and add 1 teaspoon of Raycafix for every meter.
Soak 5 minutes but don’t agitate. Rinse with cool water and dry at once. Whenever you launder the fabric again,
just use warm water.
Caution: Protect eyes and skin from contact – wear rubber gloves. Contains Methyl Alcohol. Flush any splashes
with water.
Sodium Sulfate:
(Glauber Salt) Used in place of plain salt. It creates a stronger color in the finished product. Salt is required to
open the fibers and enable the procion dye to set the color. Wear a NIOSH dust mask and avoid eye contact. If
you add it directly to the liquid, it may not mix in - I mix it with the dry dye and urea then add hot water.
Sodium Alginate:
Used to thicken dyes for screen printing, stamping and painting fabric or added to bleach to use with discharge for
painting or stamping. It stops the dye or bleach from "bleeding" into the fibre and washes out of the fabric to leave
a beautiful soft hand. A little goes a long way - try 2 or 3 teaspoons to 1 cup of water. It will be lumpy when first
mixed but if you stir it every couple of hours, in 24 hours it will be very smooth. Just thin with more water or thicken
with more sodium alginate. (It is often used as a food additive to thicken sauces, etc.)
Sodium Carbonate:
(Soda Ash). Also required to open the fibers and activate the procion dye. It is usually used as a “pre-soak” to
prepare the fabric prior to dying but can also be used after dyes are applied or sometimes even mixed with the dye
solution.
Urea:
The curing process requires the fibers to be wet and Urea attracts moisture from the air. It is used to maximize
water retention.
Bleach-Stop (sodium thiosulfate)
Bleach-Stop is used to neutralize the fabric when you are discharging colour with bleach. Bleach continues to
break down the fiber of the fabric even after it has been washed. To stop the process and keep your fabric fibers
strong, simply agitate in a solution of 30 gms. per gallon of hot water for 15 minutes, then rinse and dry. I have re-
used the solution and it seems to remain effective until it is quite discoloured. Wear eye protection, rubber gloves
and a NIOSH mask. (See separate instructions for this process.)
Calgon: If you don’t have soft water, you can add a little Calgon to the dye solution.
Screen Printing: Combine 30 gms dye + 30 gms urea (about 2 Tablespoons and 1 teaspoon) + 1/2 cup water.
Combine in a squirt bottle with a lid. This mixture will keep refrigerated up to several weeks as long as it is not
mixed with salt or soda ash. See Screen Printing Instructions for the process.
All Dyes and chemicals should be kept out of reach of children.
MX Procion Dye: Sold by weight not volume
Fiber reactive dye. Procion dyes are cold water dyes that require salt and soda ash to “react” or activate the dye
and fix it to the natural fiber. Other chemicals can also enhance the process.
You must be very cautious when measuring dry dyes. Wear a NIOSH dust mask.
T.N.A. Soap or Synthrapol (different trade names, same type of product):
Dyer's Soap. This soap removes sizing in a pre-wash cycle and removes dye particles from the fabric after the
dying process. It can also aid as a wetting agent.
Doing a load in your washing machine, 1 – 4 tablespoons would be all that is required depending on the size of
load. While this gentle soap is used extensively with hand dyed fabrics, it is also great with commercial fabrics that
you suspect may "bleed" in the wash water.
Why does this work better than powdered detergents?.... Powdered detergents often have soda ash added to them
which act as a dye "fixer". If you are trying to remove the excess dye particles so they can't fix to a place you don't
want them (red on your white socks!!!) then use a little dyer's soap instead of detergent.
Raycafix:
Dye Fixative. Used if you have a problem with continued bleeding of dyed fabrics. Can also be used to fix the dyes
from inkjet printers on fabric. (See separate instructions for this process.)
Fill container with enough hot water (160F) to cover the fabric and add 1 teaspoon of Raycafix for every meter.
Soak 5 minutes but don’t agitate. Rinse with cool water and dry at once. Whenever you launder the fabric again,
just use warm water.
Caution: Protect eyes and skin from contact – wear rubber gloves. Contains Methyl Alcohol. Flush any splashes
with water.
Sodium Sulfate:
(Glauber Salt) Used in place of plain salt. It creates a stronger color in the finished product. Salt is required to
open the fibers and enable the procion dye to set the color. Wear a NIOSH dust mask and avoid eye contact. If
you add it directly to the liquid, it may not mix in - I mix it with the dry dye and urea then add hot water.
Sodium Alginate:
Used to thicken dyes for screen printing, stamping and painting fabric or added to bleach to use with discharge for
painting or stamping. It stops the dye or bleach from "bleeding" into the fibre and washes out of the fabric to leave
a beautiful soft hand. A little goes a long way - try 2 or 3 teaspoons to 1 cup of water. It will be lumpy when first
mixed but if you stir it every couple of hours, in 24 hours it will be very smooth. Just thin with more water or thicken
with more sodium alginate. (It is often used as a food additive to thicken sauces, etc.)
Sodium Carbonate:
(Soda Ash). Also required to open the fibers and activate the procion dye. It is usually used as a “pre-soak” to
prepare the fabric prior to dying but can also be used after dyes are applied or sometimes even mixed with the dye
solution.
Urea:
The curing process requires the fibers to be wet and Urea attracts moisture from the air. It is used to maximize
water retention.
Bleach-Stop (sodium thiosulfate)
Bleach-Stop is used to neutralize the fabric when you are discharging colour with bleach. Bleach continues to
break down the fiber of the fabric even after it has been washed. To stop the process and keep your fabric fibers
strong, simply agitate in a solution of 30 gms. per gallon of hot water for 15 minutes, then rinse and dry. I have re-
used the solution and it seems to remain effective until it is quite discoloured. Wear eye protection, rubber gloves
and a NIOSH mask. (See separate instructions for this process.)
Calgon: If you don’t have soft water, you can add a little Calgon to the dye solution.
Screen Printing: Combine 30 gms dye + 30 gms urea (about 2 Tablespoons and 1 teaspoon) + 1/2 cup water.
Combine in a squirt bottle with a lid. This mixture will keep refrigerated up to several weeks as long as it is not
mixed with salt or soda ash. See Screen Printing Instructions for the process.
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If you have a problem
viewing this table, try
refreshing the page.
viewing this table, try
refreshing the page.
For dye mixing recipes
and Instructions, click on
the links.
and Instructions, click on
the links.
See Instructions to
> Discharge dyes from
fabric..
> Use Shiva Paintstiks
> Use Tsukineko Inks
> Do Screen Printing
> Discharge dyes from
fabric..
> Use Shiva Paintstiks
> Use Tsukineko Inks
> Do Screen Printing
Harmony Hand Dyes hand-dyed Fabric MX Procion Dye Shiva Paintstiks Tisdale SK Sask Saskatchewan Canada
At Quilt Saskatchewan, we had requests for Bo-Nash 007 powdered fusible. A workshop was using this powder with Jones
Tones foils and everyone in the workshop was looking for the product... so, we found a source and brought it in. We also had
requests for Write N Rub Creative Foiling Pen. We got that too!
Tones foils and everyone in the workshop was looking for the product... so, we found a source and brought it in. We also had
requests for Write N Rub Creative Foiling Pen. We got that too!
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