Harmony Hand Dyes hand-dyed Fabric MX Procion Dye Shiva Paintstiks Tisdale SK Sask Saskatchewan Canada
| Shiva Paintstiks on Fabric |
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Shiva Paintstiks are oil paints in a stick form that can be permanently heat fixed on fabric.
You can use the Paintstiks
It will take 3 to 5 days for the paintstiks to "cure" and fully set (depending on thickness
of paints.
Heat set in a hot dryer 30 minutes or press with an iron 10 to 15 seconds on every inch
of painted fabric (I prefer the dryer because I scorched a piece of fabric with the iron)
You can then wash the fabric to remove any wax or oil residue from the Paintstiks.
The Paintstiks will "self-seal" a few hours after they have been used so they won't dry out.
Gently rub the end with a paper towel and the film/seal will come off when you want to use them
again.
You can use the Paintstiks
- > directly on the fabric (like using a crayon or pastel)
> doing "rubbings" over textured items - wood, foam or rubber stamps; rubbing plates;
wicker baskets... an endless variety of items!
> using a stencil and stencil brush and working the paint inside the stencil outline
It will take 3 to 5 days for the paintstiks to "cure" and fully set (depending on thickness
of paints.
Heat set in a hot dryer 30 minutes or press with an iron 10 to 15 seconds on every inch
of painted fabric (I prefer the dryer because I scorched a piece of fabric with the iron)
You can then wash the fabric to remove any wax or oil residue from the Paintstiks.
The Paintstiks will "self-seal" a few hours after they have been used so they won't dry out.
Gently rub the end with a paper towel and the film/seal will come off when you want to use them
again.
This example shows Iridescent SHIVA Paintstiks used with various
wooden and rubber stamps that I have collected. I layered the
embellishment over black fabric that I had discharged with bleach and
fern leaves as well as a foam stamp I had made.
I had a wooden stamp about 2" square that I used for the copper and
blue motif. I placed the stamp under the discharged fabric and held the
fabric as taunt and firm as I could then I rubbed a little iridescent
copper Paintstik followed by iridescent dark blue. I did the entire 2
meters of fabric with the blue stamp.
Next I used a rubber stamp that I purchased at Walmart years ago. It has
a lacy flower and is about 3" x 4" at the widest and longest parts.
Placing this stamp under the fabric, I began going over the entire piece
with this motif. I used the iridescent brown as the main colour on most
of the flowers and I incorporated a few strokes of iridescent red, or
iridescent yellow, or iridescent orange, or iridescent copper. Usually I
would put a couple of strokes of colour on, then finish the flower with
the brown. It blends in the edges of the colours but adds variety and
interest. I found holding the fabric and rubbing away from myself
caused less ripples and shifting of fabric.
wooden and rubber stamps that I have collected. I layered the
embellishment over black fabric that I had discharged with bleach and
fern leaves as well as a foam stamp I had made.
I had a wooden stamp about 2" square that I used for the copper and
blue motif. I placed the stamp under the discharged fabric and held the
fabric as taunt and firm as I could then I rubbed a little iridescent
copper Paintstik followed by iridescent dark blue. I did the entire 2
meters of fabric with the blue stamp.
Next I used a rubber stamp that I purchased at Walmart years ago. It has
a lacy flower and is about 3" x 4" at the widest and longest parts.
Placing this stamp under the fabric, I began going over the entire piece
with this motif. I used the iridescent brown as the main colour on most
of the flowers and I incorporated a few strokes of iridescent red, or
iridescent yellow, or iridescent orange, or iridescent copper. Usually I
would put a couple of strokes of colour on, then finish the flower with
the brown. It blends in the edges of the colours but adds variety and
interest. I found holding the fabric and rubbing away from myself
caused less ripples and shifting of fabric.
TIP: A Silicon baking sheet (the kind you put on a cookie sheet) is a great base between the table and the fabric. It prevents the fabric or
stamps and rubbing plates from sliding all over the table.
stamps and rubbing plates from sliding all over the table.
I found a public domain clipart dragon,
printed it and taped it on template plastic (in
this case, an old x-ray plastic.) Then I used
my exacto knife and cut out the stencil.
The maple leaf stencil shown above was
made in the same manner.
I do my tedious work such as stencil cutting
in the evening while watching tv or the
news!!
printed it and taped it on template plastic (in
this case, an old x-ray plastic.) Then I used
my exacto knife and cut out the stencil.
The maple leaf stencil shown above was
made in the same manner.
I do my tedious work such as stencil cutting
in the evening while watching tv or the
news!!
The background was a scrap of
hand-dyed red/orange fabric.
Iridescent paintstiks made the
dragon glow.
hand-dyed red/orange fabric.
Iridescent paintstiks made the
dragon glow.
Place a stencil on the fabric and
"load" the stencil brush with
paint... take the brush and swirl it
into the end of the Paintstik to pick
up paint.
Holding the stencil firmly on the
fabric, you can "pull" it from the
edge to the centre, or swirl it on
the fabric.
You can layer images over one
another and get a shadowed effect.
"load" the stencil brush with
paint... take the brush and swirl it
into the end of the Paintstik to pick
up paint.
Holding the stencil firmly on the
fabric, you can "pull" it from the
edge to the centre, or swirl it on
the fabric.
You can layer images over one
another and get a shadowed effect.
The background was a scrap of
hand-dyed red/orange fabric.
Iridescent paintstiks made the
dragon glow.
hand-dyed red/orange fabric.
Iridescent paintstiks made the
dragon glow.
The background is a leaf "sun
print" on a T-shirt.
Iridescent paintstiks were then
stencilled on.
print" on a T-shirt.
Iridescent paintstiks were then
stencilled on.
Things to remember: you can’t dry-clean the fabric once you have applied Paintstiks.
It works on any fiber or paper
Brushes – ½” size is the most common; ¼” for small delicate area or larger brush for open spaces.
Dedicate one brush to each colour in a project.
Rubbing – need textures underneath the fabric.
Stenciling
Torn Edge (for landscapes, mountains)
Shading
Direct application
Drawing grasses, etc.
Vary contrast and colour (probably a maximum of 5 colours)
Heat set. Press (use paper towel as press cloth) with Iron – count to 10
or throw in a hot dryer 30 mins. (wait 3 days to cure before throwing in the dryer)
Drying time:
Fabrics
Clean-up
Differences:
Matte vs Iridescent
Iridescent ingredient does affect the way the paint acts on fabric.
Different pigments are more translucent than others.
Titanium White is very opaque. Can use it directly on black with no shadow. Some other colours have a more translucent quality. I.E.
Burnt umber is quite translucent. Just experiment and see which hide/opaque and which are translucent.
Ideas:
Resources:
Additional Embellishments:
Foiling – apply adhesive to stamp and apply to fabric
Hot dry iron & burnish with edge
Re-use foils then the spaces can be filled with another colour of foil
No dryer, no dry-cleaning
Can also add foil adhesive with a stencil
It works on any fiber or paper
- - Cover work surface and wear an apron or old cloths.
- Remove the skin on the surface of the Paintstik with paper towel and rub a bit to have a smooth surface.
- A non-skid work surface is helpful (the smooth side of a silicone baking sheet works great)
- Mixing colours & blending – use palette paper/non porous paper/wax paper
- Make two puddles of colours or the blending stick, then pick up the colour from one puddle and mix it into the other puddle.
- Pre-wash fabric (no sizing) or use prepared for dyeing fabric (PFD)
Brushes – ½” size is the most common; ¼” for small delicate area or larger brush for open spaces.
Dedicate one brush to each colour in a project.
Rubbing – need textures underneath the fabric.
- Rub in one direction only (usually away from you holding the fabric firmly over the texture); don’t colour back and forth like a
crayon. You can rub with the tip, or you may find rubbing with the side of the paintstik works better for large surfaces.
Switch colours & overlay colours
If you get a smear or over-run, try lifting the smear with a piece of masking tape.
To eliminate “over-runs” feel along the edge and just do small dabbing motions, not long rubbing motions.
Hold the Paintstik like a pen or pencil for tip rubbings and hold it on the side for large area rubbings.
Stenciling
- Make sure stencil doesn’t move.
Load the brush from the Paintstik or puddle
Torn Edge (for landscapes, mountains)
- Just tear your paper and use like a template or stencil edge and brush away from edge.
Masking tape can cover areas you don’t want painted.
Shading
- Load brush and just work-in darker, or lighter colour for shading
Direct application
Drawing grasses, etc.
Vary contrast and colour (probably a maximum of 5 colours)
Heat set. Press (use paper towel as press cloth) with Iron – count to 10
or throw in a hot dryer 30 mins. (wait 3 days to cure before throwing in the dryer)
Drying time:
Fabrics
- 24 hours to dry but 3-5 days to "cure" depending on how thick you have applied the Paintstiks.
- Heat setting is unique to fabric – we plan to wash it. Heat setting speeds up the drying process. We use more paint on fabric
than we do on the wall.
It will dry completely on its own on a wall and we don’t plan to put a wall in the washing machine.
Some people spray a fixative on wall or floor (art supply or craft store.)
Leather or suede – paint will dry over time. Give it a week or two to dry before using.
Clean-up
- - Can use dishwashing detergent
- Odorless solvents - put some in a jar (place a stone in the bottom to rub brushes on)
- After solvent, use soap and rub in palm of your hand, then rinse.
- Bar soap
- Lay out on paper towel
- Spray griper or rubbing plates with degreaser
- Stencil – use degreaser and rub gently with fingers.
Differences:
- - Paintstiks – high quality pigments, wax and a small amount of low acid linseed oil (so we don’t have to “prime” our
fabric before applying paintstiks.)
- Paint bars have high linseed oil and can’t be used directly on fabric without primer
- Oil Pastel – mineral oil and powdered pigments. Problem with wash-fastness
Matte vs Iridescent
Iridescent ingredient does affect the way the paint acts on fabric.
Different pigments are more translucent than others.
Titanium White is very opaque. Can use it directly on black with no shadow. Some other colours have a more translucent quality. I.E.
Burnt umber is quite translucent. Just experiment and see which hide/opaque and which are translucent.
Ideas:
- - “Applique” look. Create your own stencils with freezer paper, i.e. – fold freezer paper like snowflakes – throw away snow
flake and use “stencil” outside. Iron freezer paper on fabric and use a stencil brush to fill in the space of the outline.
You can then put fusible stabilizer behind the fabric and do thread work on the drawing.
(Hawaiian appliqué style, or a flower, stars, etc.)
- You can personalize items with stenciled names. I got alphabet stencil templates at the Dollar Store. Just load your
stencil brush and work into the letter area.
- You can draw directly on fabric if you want more intense colour.
Resources:
- Paintstks on Fabric: Simple Techniques, Fantastic Results by Shelley Stokes. A “how-to” book.
Check out the 6:43 minute video by Laura Murray at: www.taunton.com/threads/pages/tvt049.asp
Additional Embellishments:
Foiling – apply adhesive to stamp and apply to fabric
Hot dry iron & burnish with edge
Re-use foils then the spaces can be filled with another colour of foil
No dryer, no dry-cleaning
Can also add foil adhesive with a stencil
For a printer friendly copy of the
following information, click on:
Shiva PDF
following information, click on:
Shiva PDF
Birches
Masking tape covered the space allocated to the
birch trees and the background was shaded in with
Matte Shiva Paintstiks and a stencil brush. For
instructions in PDF format, go to Birch Instructions
Masking tape covered the space allocated to the
birch trees and the background was shaded in with
Matte Shiva Paintstiks and a stencil brush. For
instructions in PDF format, go to Birch Instructions
To purchase
Shiva Paintstiks
Shiva Paintstiks
| Shelley Stokes says, "You make rubbings with the end of the paintstik when you are working with a very small surface area. If your textured surface or rubbing plate has large open areas between the design elements, it’s easy for the paintstik to drop down into the “holes” in the design and for the rubbing to get rather messy. If you use the side of the paintstik, you are working with a large, flat surface area. Your paint will stay out of the holes, and it’s much, much easier to get a nice, clean image." |
| Hints: Use a smooth sided silicon "baking sheet" to place under rubbing plates to keep them from sliding. Use repositionable sprays such as 505 on the rubbing plates to keep the fabric from sliding. |
Shiva Paintstiks are a Cedar Canyon Textiles product. The owner, Shelley
Stokes has some great tips and ideas as well as free placemat instructions
on her website at: http://www.cedarcanyontextiles.com/learning.php
While you are on the Cedar Canyon website, check out Shelley's blog.
Stokes has some great tips and ideas as well as free placemat instructions
on her website at: http://www.cedarcanyontextiles.com/learning.php
While you are on the Cedar Canyon website, check out Shelley's blog.
Please remember, the suggested retail price on the Cedar Canyon website is in US $$ and does not include freight and shipping.
Our prices reflect the Canadian Distributor suggested retail price.
Our prices reflect the Canadian Distributor suggested retail price.