Harmony Hand Dyes hand-dyed Fabric MX Procion Dye Shiva Paintstiks Tisdale SK Sask Saskatchewan Canada
| Painting fabric with MX Procion Dye |
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MX Procion Reactive Dye usually requires chemicals and a curing
time to fix to 100% cotton.
I have spent some time reading information on the yahoo.group.com
website for dyeing yarns (Dyehappy) and although the processes do
not always translate to quilting needs, one method piqued my
interest. Some of the members discussed fixing water colour
pigments using soy milk. The protein acts as a fixative for the
pigment. I have done some experimenting and this is what I have
found:
time to fix to 100% cotton.
I have spent some time reading information on the yahoo.group.com
website for dyeing yarns (Dyehappy) and although the processes do
not always translate to quilting needs, one method piqued my
interest. Some of the members discussed fixing water colour
pigments using soy milk. The protein acts as a fixative for the
pigment. I have done some experimenting and this is what I have
found:
Paint Recipe 1: Pre-soak fabric in 1/4 cup soda ash to 1 gallon hot water for 15
minutes then paint with the following mixture:
1/2 to 1 tsp of MX Procion dye
1/2 cup warm soy milk (I am using a 7gm protein soy "beverage")
Paint Recipe 2: Don't pre-soak fabric, just combine:
1/2 to 1 tsp of MX Procion dye
1 tsp soda ash (sodium carbonate)
1/2 cup warm soy milk (I am using a 7gm protein soy "beverage")
Sponge on, paint on, spray on... whatever method you like.
I let my pieces dry overnight then ironed to "heat set". If you are using the fabric
in a wall hanging or work that will never be washed, you can stop there. The
fabric will be a little stiff but if that is OK, just use as is.
If you plan to use the fabric in an article that will be washed, you need to remove
the excess dye particles that have not fixed to the fabric.
I rinsed the fabric - like you rinse the regularly dyed fabrics. Start with cold water
then rinse in warm and then fairly hot. Wash with dyers soap. Rinse and heat
set in dryer on hottest setting for 20 to 30 minutes.
minutes then paint with the following mixture:
1/2 to 1 tsp of MX Procion dye
1/2 cup warm soy milk (I am using a 7gm protein soy "beverage")
Paint Recipe 2: Don't pre-soak fabric, just combine:
1/2 to 1 tsp of MX Procion dye
1 tsp soda ash (sodium carbonate)
1/2 cup warm soy milk (I am using a 7gm protein soy "beverage")
Sponge on, paint on, spray on... whatever method you like.
I let my pieces dry overnight then ironed to "heat set". If you are using the fabric
in a wall hanging or work that will never be washed, you can stop there. The
fabric will be a little stiff but if that is OK, just use as is.
If you plan to use the fabric in an article that will be washed, you need to remove
the excess dye particles that have not fixed to the fabric.
I rinsed the fabric - like you rinse the regularly dyed fabrics. Start with cold water
then rinse in warm and then fairly hot. Wash with dyers soap. Rinse and heat
set in dryer on hottest setting for 20 to 30 minutes.
Another option is a "Helio" technique - also known as SUN PAINTING.
I have been delighted with the results using the same recipe above with soy
milk or beverage.
First example shows painted fabric with a variety of leaves placed on the
surface. I placed it in the sun and let it dry. When the leaves are removed the
areas that were covered are quite light.
The second example shows painted fabric that is then "scrunched" and placed
in the sun. The areas that were covered or shaded are lighter than the folds
on the top.
I use old laminated calendars, corroplast, styrafoam or any other backing to
paint on that will wash off easily. I place the fabric on it, paint then place leaves
etc. on. Then I carry it out to the sun.
I have been delighted with the results using the same recipe above with soy
milk or beverage.
First example shows painted fabric with a variety of leaves placed on the
surface. I placed it in the sun and let it dry. When the leaves are removed the
areas that were covered are quite light.
The second example shows painted fabric that is then "scrunched" and placed
in the sun. The areas that were covered or shaded are lighter than the folds
on the top.
I use old laminated calendars, corroplast, styrafoam or any other backing to
paint on that will wash off easily. I place the fabric on it, paint then place leaves
etc. on. Then I carry it out to the sun.
If you are
interested in
using resists for a
"batik" effect, go
to my instructions
for a Resist
Recipe.
interested in
using resists for a
"batik" effect, go
to my instructions
for a Resist
Recipe.
This sample shows the background sponged on
for sky, then the front grasses brushed on with a
foam brush.
It has been wash.
It is intended for flower applique.
for sky, then the front grasses brushed on with a
foam brush.
It has been wash.
It is intended for flower applique.
Sun prints
The leaves are pressed into the wet
paint then left in the sun to dry.
Top right shows leaves removed
before washing.
Below right shows after washing.
The leaves are pressed into the wet
paint then left in the sun to dry.
Top right shows leaves removed
before washing.
Below right shows after washing.
Salt on wet paint pulls the colour. This sample has been washed.
The sample at the right was
sponged a light aqua/green for
background then I took fern
leaves and with a foam paint
brush, sponged paint on the
leaves. I then pressed the
leaves on the wet background.
This sample has been washed.
sponged a light aqua/green for
background then I took fern
leaves and with a foam paint
brush, sponged paint on the
leaves. I then pressed the
leaves on the wet background.
This sample has been washed.
This sun print shows the
painted fabric scrunched up
to dry in the sun. The photo
below left is pressed but
unwashed and the photo
below right has been washed.
painted fabric scrunched up
to dry in the sun. The photo
below left is pressed but
unwashed and the photo
below right has been washed.
One time I used soy milk that was getting close to the expiry date and when I mixed it with the dye and
soda ash, it curdled. I still used it to paint with. I just had to brush a bit more to work it in, but I wondered
...what would happen if I pre-soaked the fabric in a soda ash solution then just applied a mixture of
procion dye and soy milk?
Left sample shows the dye mixed with soda ash and soy beverage (UHT this time), and painted on dry
fabric. I pressed leaves on and placed in the sun to dry.
Right sample shows the exact same amount of dye and soy milk, but I did not add the soda ash. Instead I
pre-soaked the fabric in a soda ash solution (1/4 cup soda ash per gallon of hot water for 15 minutes),
then when still wet, I painted on the dye/soy beverage (UHT) mixture. I then pressed the leaves on &
placed in the sun.
As you would expect, the colour of the Dry fabric is more intense because it sucked up more liquid... dye
mixture. The Pre-soaked fabric is lighter because it was already wet and diluted the dye mixture a bit.
What did I learn -
> The sun printing was pretty much equal... so I would think you could do it either way.
> Neither mixture curdled (but then the UHT Soy beverege was just opened).
> When rinsing, there was a bit more colour coming out of the dry method, but it had considerably more
dye in the fabric from absorbing into the dry fabric.
soda ash, it curdled. I still used it to paint with. I just had to brush a bit more to work it in, but I wondered
...what would happen if I pre-soaked the fabric in a soda ash solution then just applied a mixture of
procion dye and soy milk?
Left sample shows the dye mixed with soda ash and soy beverage (UHT this time), and painted on dry
fabric. I pressed leaves on and placed in the sun to dry.
Right sample shows the exact same amount of dye and soy milk, but I did not add the soda ash. Instead I
pre-soaked the fabric in a soda ash solution (1/4 cup soda ash per gallon of hot water for 15 minutes),
then when still wet, I painted on the dye/soy beverage (UHT) mixture. I then pressed the leaves on &
placed in the sun.
As you would expect, the colour of the Dry fabric is more intense because it sucked up more liquid... dye
mixture. The Pre-soaked fabric is lighter because it was already wet and diluted the dye mixture a bit.
What did I learn -
> The sun printing was pretty much equal... so I would think you could do it either way.
> Neither mixture curdled (but then the UHT Soy beverege was just opened).
> When rinsing, there was a bit more colour coming out of the dry method, but it had considerably more
dye in the fabric from absorbing into the dry fabric.
| Dry Fabric Dye + soda ash + soy beverage |
| Pre-soaked Fabric (in soda ash solution) Dye + soy beverage |
| Both samples have been washed. |