Harmony Hand Dyes hand-dyed Fabric MX Procion Dye Shiva Paintstiks Tisdale SK Sask Saskatchewan Canada
Discharging Dye From Fabric
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Discharging Dye From Cotton Fabric
Discharging: the process of removing dye from natural fibres with chemicals or bleach. You can use
various methods – stamping, stencilling, tye-dye, spraying, shibori, etc.
Different fabrics give different results. Some dyes are difficult to discharge and some are very easy.
Discharging rarely results in the original white – it can vary depending on the dyes used and for
black, it can produce variations from light tan to deep rust to green.
Work in well-ventilated areas - discharging chemicals and bleach can give off chlorine fumes.
I usually work OUTSIDE or in the garage with the door open.
The methods I like to work with the most are
• Bleach with about 5% chlorine (try 1 part bleach to 2 parts water)
• Bleach thickened with sodium alginate paste
• Palmolive Gel Dishwasher Detergent (I have also tried "Vim" and it discharges too).
Equipment:
Bleach and/or dishwasher gel; Bleach-Stop; spray bottle for bleach; fabric (start with solid colours -
black is great - in about 9" squares to end up with 8" finished blocks); bucket for Bleach-Stop and
large plastic spoon; bucket for rinse water; bucket of clean-up water (to wash backing, stamps and
stencils between uses); pressed leaves, stamps, stencils.... whatever theme you want.; pins. You will
need plastic or "plastic cardboard" to work on.
Bleach-Stop is a chemical – sodium thiosulfate crystals. Exercise Caution:
• Avoid contact with eyes or skin. Wear eye protection and a NIOSH mask. If eye
contact occurs flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes, then get medical
attention.
• Avoid fumes
• Wear rubber gloves
• Work in well ventilated area (I prefer outside)
• If swallowed, induce vomiting and call a physician.
• KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN AND PETS.
Prepare Bleach Stop:
1 oz Bleach Stop (1-1/2 Scant Tablespoons) to 1 gallon hot water.
Dissolve slowly to avoid heat buildup.
Soak/agitate the bleached fabric for 15 minutes, then rinse in cold water.
Spraying Bleach:
TREAT BLEACH LIKE IT’S BLEACH – A CORROSIVE!!
- Wear rubber gloves
- Old clothes – including shoes (gravity!)
- Mask and eye protection.
Pin fabric pieces on to the plastic cardboard.
Pin on shapes. If using pressed leaves, try to “hide” the pins so they don’t block the bleach.
Stand the board upright to spray then QUICKLY LAY THE BOARD DOWN SO THE BLEACH DOESN’T
RUN. ....you are probably thinking, "why can't I just lie the fabric flat and spray it"... when I have tried
this, the spray bottle often drips from the nozzle and you can get bigger "splashes" rather than
spray. Test your sprayer and if you are confident it won't drip, then you can spray it flat.
Let sit 1 to 2 minutes. Don’t leave longer than necessary. Once the dye has discharged, the bleach
will only eat the fabric so take it immediately and immerse and agitate/soak in the Bleach-Stop. Let
soak 15 minutes then rinse in cold water. Hang to dry or pop it in the dryer.
For stamping, I apply the bleach or dishwasher gel to the stamp with a foam brush. It gives a more
even stamp and avoids dripping on fabric. You can see when the bleach has discharged but the
dishwasher gel hides the discharge so try some samples and time them to see how long it takes to
discharge - different fabrics can take different discharge times.
You can also paint the fabric with a "Resist" and let it dry then spray with bleach. The area that has
been covered with the resist keeps the colour intact and the surrounding area is discharged.




Thickening Bleach
You can do great stencilling or painting. I like to mix 1/2 bleach and 1/2 sodium alginate
paste and then use a foam paint brush to discharge designs in stencils or brush on rubber
stamps and stamp the fabric.
You can use Sodium Alginate to thicken chlorine bleach for discharge;
Caution: DO NOT USE A MIXTURE WITH UREA.
The chlorine bleach will break down the gel so only mix as much bleach
and sodium alginate paste as you will use in about four hours. It does not
store well and will break down to a liquid again if not used within a few
hours.
Work in a well ventilated area …. like outdoors, or use a mask with acid
gas cartridges if working indoors.
Prepare the Sodium Alginate thickener/paste at least a day ahead:
½ cup of water.
1 to 1-1/2 teaspoons Sodium Alginate.
Slowly sprinkle the sodium alginate into the water while stirring. It will
be lumpy but stir occasionally over the next 24 hours and it will become
quite smooth. This paste will keep in the fridge for a few weeks.
Every dye discharges differently. Some require stronger bleach concentrations and some discharge
easily with a very weak concentration. You will have to experiment with a swatch of your fabric to see how
much bleach you require. The fabric will rarely return to the original colour. Black can discharge to a rust
colour, or green, or grey. Fuchsia may not discharge at all.
Have Bleach Stop prepared and ready before you begin mixing your bleach and thickener. You need to
immerse the discharged fabric as soon as the desired amount of discharge has taken place.
I would start with about 1 Tablespoon of thickener to 1 Tablespoon of bleach. Do not breath in the fumes
of the bleach at any time. Even though it is a common household product, respect the hazard.
Thickened bleach works very well with stencils. You can buy lots of precut stencil designs but you can
easily draw your design on freezer paper and carefully cut it out with an exacto knife and cutting mat. Iron
the freezer paper template on the fabric and paint on the thickened bleach inside your template. You can
also use “contact paper” or adhesive shelf liner to create your stencils. You can paint on the thickened
bleach with a foam brush.
Allow the mixture to work… the time depends on the type of dye in the fabric. Some dyes discharge
quickly and some fabrics will never give up that dye. Once the fabric has discharged (perhaps 2 to 5
minutes… or more if it is a really stubborn dye), quickly immerse it in Bleach Stop so that the bleach
does not continue to destroy the fiber. Stir about 15 minutes then rinse the fabric in cool water.
Jones Tones Plexi-glue was used to
outline the trees, then when the glue
was dry, Jones Tones foil was applied.
Freezer paper
trees were
ironed on the
black fabric,
then sprayed
with bleach +
water.
Foam
shapes
pinned
on then
sprayed
with
bleach +
water.
Freezer
paper
shapes
ironed on
then
sprayed.
Jones
Tones
Foil
around
tree with
Jones
Tones
Plexi-glue.
Resist was painted on through
a stencil and when dry, it was
sprayed with bleach.
Freezer
paper
shapes
ironed on
black
fabric then
painted
with
bleach
thickened
with
sodium
alginate
<--- After the pumpkin shape was discharged with
bleach + sodium alginate, I used the Tonertex
Write 'N Rub pen to outline the pumpkin then
when the glue was dry, I applied Jones Tones Foil
Jones Tones Plexi-glue was used to outline
the witch, then when the glue was dry, Jones
Tones foil was applied.
A freezer paper witch was ironed on the black fabric, then sprayed with bleach + water.
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Discharge on Pimatex Black
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Bo-Nash
007 Bonding
Agent -
adhesive
powder was
sprinkled on
the fabric
and pressed
using the
Bo-Nash
ironing
sheet.
Jones
Tones foil
was then
placed on
top and
"burnished"
with a warm
iron.
When the
freezer paper
is removed, the
fabric that was
protected by
the freezer
paper remains
the original
colour, and the
fabric that was
sprayed with
bleach
"discharges"
it's dye.
Cory VanHaastert cut stencils out of freezer paper
and created samples of "positive" and "negative"
discharge. One sample shows painting the inside
of the stencil with bleach & sodium alginate and
the other shows painting the outside.
<-- Fiesta
Pimatex
Discharge Thickener Instructions: